How do I find the value of a Pokémon card?
Direct answer
Identify the card first (set, number, rarity, language, condition), then look up its market price on Cardmarket if you are in Europe or TCGPlayer if you are in the US. For Scarlet & Violet sets there is a three-letter set code printed on the card (TWM for Twilight Masquerade for example) that makes identification trivial. For older cards the set symbol is your guide. Condition shifts the price enormously — a vintage card in rough shape can sell for a fraction of the same card near-mint, so check carefully before quoting a price.
Step 1: Identify the rarity
The rarity symbol on the bottom of the card sets the floor. Common (black circle) and uncommon (black diamond) are bulk for most modern sets. Rare (black star) and double rare (two black stars) start to carry real value. Above that: full art (two silver stars), illustration rare or art rare (one gold star), special illustration rare (two gold stars). The closer to the top of the rarity stack, the more important condition and edition become.
Step 2: Identify the set
For Scarlet & Violet cards there is a three-letter set code printed on the card — TWM for Twilight Masquerade, SFA for Shrouded Fable, and so on. Type that code plus the card number into Cardmarket or TCGPlayer and you have the product within seconds.
For older cards the set symbol on the bottom-right (or bottom-left on early WotC prints) is your only guide. There are dozens of symbols and many sellers — including me when I came back to the hobby — get stuck here. A phone-based card identifier is faster than scrolling through Bulbapedia. I built one as a hobby project for exactly that problem, which became NeoSatoshi.
Step 3: Check condition honestly
For modern cards, prices typically assume near-mint condition because that is what most people are buying and selling. So if your card is near-mint or better, the listed Cardmarket / TCGPlayer price is roughly what you can ask. If it is played, heavily played, or damaged, expect a significant discount — sometimes 30-60% off the near-mint price.
For vintage cards condition spread is dramatic. The same card can range from $5 played to $500 mint. Look at corners, edges, surface, centering. Even a small surface scratch or one rough corner moves a vintage card down a full grade tier.
Step 4: Use the right price source
- Cardmarket Trend — Cardmarket's own algorithmic mid-price. Best general baseline in Europe. Tracks recent listings, not just sales.
- Cardmarket 30-day average — actual sold-listing average. More conservative than Trend, good for setting a "sell quickly" price.
- TCGPlayer Market Price — the equivalent in the US. Note: TCGPlayer prices are usually 20-40% higher than Cardmarket because of different supply and demand.
- eBay Sold Listings — filter the search by "Sold items" and ignore the "Active listings" prices. Active listings tell you what people are asking; sold listings tell you what people are actually paying.
Step 5: Price for the platform you are selling on
A card worth €5 on Cardmarket Trend often sells for $7-8 on eBay because the US buyer base is willing to pay more. If you sell across multiple marketplaces, set per-platform prices instead of one global price. The price differences are real and matter for your margins.
Skip the manual price lookup
NeoSatoshi reads each card from a photo, attaches Cardmarket and TCGPlayer prices automatically, and lets you set your markup once for the whole batch.
No account required for the first 10 detections.